LMA Equipment Guide, Theory, and Hygiene

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These are the pieces of equipment you'll need for the kickboxing portion of Liberation Martial Arts (LMA).

Related:

Supplements I Take

Tip: If you're small with small hands or feet, you might be better off shopping youth sizes.

Tag and Introduction to Contact Games

Foam noodles:

Multicolored is best because they're easy to see. For beginner games, you want it to be easy and safe, and foam noodles provide ease and flexibility for various games. You want games that are easy to play.

We also give foam noodles to practitioners if we don't want them to use their hands. So, rather than being an essential part of the game, we use them to remove the hands from the game.

You'll want to cut the foam noodles because you don't want them too long. One noodle should provide four sticks. The best places to pick them up are at a market, drug store, or dollar store.

I wipe down foam noodles after use and let them air dry.

This is the first piece of equipment you'll need. Since equipment is cost-prohibitive, all our recommendations balance price with quality. You also don't need all the equipment at once, which allows purchases to be segmented.

Kicking Games

Chest protector:

People are more comfortable touching and being touched to the body with a chest protector on, especially if they're training with shoes. The chest protector not only protects the body but also makes a distinct sound whenever you make contact. This makes scoring to the body easier to judge and intensity easier to adjust. The sanda chest protector makes a nice sound whenever you make contact. For more protection and sizing flexibility, try a taekwondo chest guard.

Groin protector:

Next is the groin protector, which we recommend to every practitioner. Not just to protect the groin but also the pelvis, lower abs, and hips as we explore kicks.

Since we wear groin protectors over our clothes, we size up. It also makes it easier to pull it over our shin guards or to take it off to use the bathroom. Being able to easily wear equipment over clothes is essential since we can't assume where training will take place. For most of our practitioners, training rarely takes place in a commercial martial arts gym setting with locker rooms. Also, we want to be flexible with training attire.

With all equipment, wipe down after every use with a towel, disinfectant, and water or a sanitizing wipe. Only use just enough moisture to wipe off sweat and germs. Immediately allow equipment to air dry (away from sunlight), and don't leave any equipment sitting in a bag.

Once your groin protector arrives, adjust the laces in the back until the protector is easy to put on and take off over your clothes. Once the laces are adjusted and tied, you never need to adjust them again.

Shin guards:

Once we get to turning kicks, we'll need shin guards. Since we can't assume where practitioners will train, we need shin guards that can be worn with or without shoes.

Equipment recommendations often assume commercial gym environments, and we don't make those assumptions. In fact, many practitioners aren't safe in commercial gyms or can't train at a commercial gym for various reasons.

It's better to start training immediately with a training partner than spend years looking for the right gym or putting up with a toxic environment just because you need a gym. We know from running LMA practices that it's possible to improve faster and safer on your own with some friends than in a commercial setting.

Discussions about equipment are always more than just about equipment. We think it's best for training to meet you where you are rather than where you are not. Time is the most essential tool for training. Enthusiasm and motivation are fleeting. Why spend the entirety of that period looking for a gym you probably won't even like when you could be training right away? During the search, many give up on the idea of training. The longer it is delayed, the less likely you are to start.

Two earnest LMA beginners will be better off in six months than two people who spent that exact period looking for a gym and never training.

We have developing practitioners who have only done LMA with other brand-new practitioners who, after five months, can spar just as well, if not better, than those with two years of dedicated commercial gym experience.

Improving is about the number of dynamic rounds you've had, and the sooner you start, the more rounds you can accumulate. It does not matter if you are with other beginners so long as you're doing dynamic and safe rounds. Even if you're in a commercial gym with pros, if all you're doing is everything other than live rounds, how much are you improving?

Don't let lack of experience stop you. How do you build experience? By doing the thing. You don't need a sensei, coach, or guru. You just need safe friends to train with. You see this daily in other sports and activities where practitioners learn from trying things with their peers (e.g., basketball, soccer, tennis, skateboarding, biking, bouldering, and nearly everything else). In martial arts, we've been conditioned to believe the proper learning environment should be top-down and heavy-handed because martial arts in the West is privatized, whereas many other sports and activities are public. It's not that you can't learn on your own or with friends, it's what capitalism has convinced us. The popularization of martial arts in the West happened during the period of anti-communism, which made it immediate bedfellows with capitalism. What we often think is martial arts is just capitalism repackaged as orientalist martial arts.

This discussion about martial arts sparring gear is also directly tied to why our pedagogy isn't based on self-defense. With sparring gear, its use is immediate, embodied, direct, non-theoretical, and as intended. For self-defense (or even something like guns), the use is theoretical and abstract rather than immediate, direct, embodied, or tangible. It's a solution hoping never to find the right problem (with guns, it's an absolute solution with no grace for mistakes), whereas with play, it's all about constant, messy, and live problem-solving—that's the point. It's the difference between a rehearsal for an experience you dread might happen vs. a consistent, enthusiastic experience you keep looking forward to. You're not training for something; training is the something—training is the meaning and value. It's a truth that's felt in your muscles and bones every time you put on your gear. Your equipment is sacred because it always fulfills its purpose and affirms its existence. But how do you gain value and meaning or even gauge value for something you're never doing? Playing, on the other hand, is self-actualizing.

If you're training often, you might need more than one pair of shin guards to give the last used pair time to dry. Constant use and moisture destroy equipment.

Since the velcro wraps are elastic, do not overstretch them or use them to tie down your shin guards after each use. You want your shin guards open and the insides to face out to air dry.

Already have shin guards

If you already have shin guards and want to be able to use them with shoes, or if you have shin guards that are too loose, use elastic anti-slip straps to hold them in place.

Competition shin guards:

For competition or hard sparring, you'll want heavy-duty shin guards. Brands like Fairtex have shin guards that are competition-approved.

Knee pads:

You'll need knee pads with shin guards. Just as with shin guards, knee pads are meant to protect the wearer and their partner. The more protected you both are, the safer you both feel to play. The question is, will you wear them with shorts or long pants? For shorts or tight pants, we recommend pull-on knee pads. There's also an option with more cushion and coverage. For thicker pants or for ease of use, we recommend velcro knee pads.

Turn knee pads inside out after use, then wipe them down and air dry. Have the wettest side facing up. For deeper cleaning (once they begin to smell), follow the wash instructions.

Since knee pads soak up so much sweat, having more than one pair is an excellent idea. If you're training with shoes, take off your shoes before pulling up the knee pads, or get the velcro wraps if you want to keep your shoes on.

The order you should put on equipment is groin protector, followed by knee pads, followed by shin guards. This will prevent any tearing of equipment.

Introduction of Body Kicks

Elbow pads:

As we move onto body kicks, you'll need elbow pads. Equipment is always about mutual protection, which means covering bony hard parts. You'll want a sleeve to protect yourself against velcro burns. There's also an option with softer padding.

Turn elbow pads inside out after use, then wipe them down and air dry. Have the wettest side facing up. For deeper cleaning (once they begin to smell), follow the wash instructions.

Like knee pads, elbow pads soak up a lot of sweat, so consider having multiple pairs and creating a rotation system for all your equipment.

Punching Games

Hand wraps:

As we get into punching, you'll need hand wraps. Moisture destroys equipment, and boxing gloves are the most expensive equipment many people will own. Another term for hand wraps is inner lining or glove liners because they soak up moisture, preventing much of it from soaking into the boxing gloves. There is a method for washing gloves, but washing the hand wraps is much easier and safer.

Cloth hand wraps are great for soaking up sweat and protecting the hands and wrists. They also fill up empty spaces in your gloves, making them fit like gloves rather than oven mitts. However, they take the most time to put on—time that could be spent training or warming up. You also don't need that much protection if you're not hitting pads or a bag. Thick hand wraps also make fitting into gloves and taking them off difficult. This is why we recommend glove liners.

After every use, flip the glove liners inside out, wipe them down, and air dry. For cloth hand wraps, hang them to air dry. (Don't leave them wet and balled up, especially in your bag!) Keep in mind that cloth hand wraps make for denser fists and reduce haptics, making contact more intense and reducing your ability to notice. Adjust your punches accordingly.

Whether cloth hand wraps or glove liners, you want multiple pairs. You want them completely dry before next use.

You don't need to wash them after every use, but you do want to wash them as soon as they begin to smell. This is true for all your washable equipment. Wash them by hand rather than in a washing machine, as they'll either get damaged or tangled up. Never dry any of your equipment in the dryer.

Gloves:

With hand wraps come gloves. You don't want gloves just for punching but also for blocking kicks, so it should have enough padding all the way around. Padding not only protects our hands but also our partners.

Since punching is about putting our weight behind our punches, the more weight we have, the bigger gloves we need. (If you want to strengthen your arms while protecting your partners, size up.)

Sizing guide

• 80-100 lbs = 8 oz

• 100-120 lbs = 10 oz

• 120-140 lbs = 12 oz

• 140-160 lbs = 14 oz

• 160-180 lbs = 16 oz

• 180-200 lbs = 18 oz

• 200-220 lbs = 20 oz

• 220-240 lbs = 22 oz

• 240 and above = 24 oz

The size guides you see online are based on hitting the bag or sparring in the same weight category rather than only using them for mixed division sparring.

Wipe down every part of the inside of your gloves along with the outside. The insides need to dry out, so rest them where the insides can get airflow.

Training gloves

If you train at a gym that requires you to hit pads and the bag, don't use those gloves for sparring. They'll have no padding left to protect your partners. Have gloves just for pad and bag work and separate ones for sparring. Gloves you use for pads and bags will also absorb dirt and oil from the pads and bags, which can get into your training partner's eyes. Gloves for bag and pad work are also made differently because they are only about protecting your hands rather than not injuring your partner.

Insurance Against Accidents

Mouthguard:

Even if there is no punching to the face, it's still a good idea to have a mouthguard, preferably two. It's often mandatory in youth sports not because anyone is aiming to hit you in the mouth but in case of accidents. It not only protects your teeth and brain but also your neck. However, the mouthguard works best when you are biting down on it.

Make sure to follow the molding instructions to the letter. If done right, it'll fit like a retainer.

Rinse thoroughly before and after every use and carry it in a breathable container. If you can, keep the container lid open and allow the mouthguard to air dry rather than leaving it in your bag. Occasionally, brush it with toothpaste and a soft toothbrush, especially if you leave it in your bag.

Consideration: Breathing, let alone breathing while engaged in physical activity while biting down on the mouthguard, can take some getting used to. Consider wearing the mouthguard during exercise to get used to it for sparring games.

Headgear:

Even with no head contact, many of our practitioners still wear headgear in case of accidents (e.g., headbutts, eye pokes, cuts, kicks, hits to back of the head, protecting the head against falls). Oftentimes, you might deflect a punch, and your own glove hits you in the eye. Exploratory play requires safety.

However, there are pros and cons. It can buttress punches to the head, but it also makes your head a bigger target. Being a bigger target can increase whipping effects on your neck. If we are doing light contact, your brain will be fine, but your neck might still take damage.

When we do head contact, we tell practitioners to aim with their palms, touch the chin, chest, or shoulders, and go slow. Hitting above the chin is when the whipping motion happens.

Slow touches are what protect our partners. Sure, it's easier for our partners to see our head shots, but that's the point. We want everyone to practice seeing the shots and blocking. The goal of sparring games isn't to permanently damage our partners but to have mutual enjoyment and benefit. Sparring games aren't your competition; a competition is your competition.

We have everyone wear headgear once we begin punching and high kicking. Once practitioners have developed their eyes, defenses, and control, they're ready for head contact. Despite the cons, there are still more benefits to wearing headgear than not.

Wipe down the inside and outside of your headgear after every use and dry it. Since this is going on your face, equipment hygiene is crucial.

The order of upper body equipment is mouthguard first since you'll want to rinse them out and put them in your mouth before touching other equipment, then elbow pads, wraps, chest protector, headgear, and gloves. Gloves are last because once you put them on, you won't be able to use your hands.

This might all sound like a lot to remember, but it will quickly become second nature.

If you plan to compete, you may need an open-face headgear. You want something low-profile that doesn't make your head a bigger target and that doesn't make it easier to grab in clinch.

Extending Equipment Life

Mesh bag:

A mesh bag will go a long way in allowing equipment to air out immediately. Taking your equipment out of your bag when you get home is still recommended to maximize airflow and drying. A mesh bag will save you money in the long run because it preserves your equipment.

All pieces of equipment have an expiration date, so it makes sense to take care of them. Spending a lot of money on equipment meant to be replaced disincentives people from replacing them.

Nearly every piece of equipment listed is made of foam, and foam literally rots and makes you sick. The covering on your equipment will peel off because sweat is corrosive. You can inhale bits of foam and debris; it can even get in your eyes. Even mouthguards deteriorate and fall apart. This happens to the most expensive equipment. A $200 pair of sweaty gloves will quickly become worthless if left sealed in a typical gym bag. Are expensive but destroyed gloves better than inexpensive, well-maintained gloves? No.

However, if you pay a lot, you'll insist on using equipment past its expiration, not just because of the sunk-cost fallacy but also because you spent all your money. You want to balance quality with price so you can painlessly replace equipment as needed.

If you treasure your equipment, regardless of the price, you'll take care of them. If you're always going light, you don't need expensive equipment. However, if you're going hard or hitting the bag hard, your cheap equipment also means cheap material. Going hard with cheap material means injury. If you're never going hard, how good must the material be? It's all about its use, so be realistic.

Charcoal bags:

To activate, put them under direct sunlight for eight hours and then for two hours each month. You can use them for years. Place them in your gloves, glove liners, elbow and knee pads, bag, and even shoes to absorb moisture and odor. This investment will extend the life of your equipment, saving you money.

Taking care of your equipment that has taken care of you is a meditative ritual that closes out training.

Sanitizing wipes:

I use them to clean my equipment after every use. When I'm done, I immediately throw a charcoal bag in my gear and let it air dry.

Disinfectant and odor-eliminator spray:

Spray on your gear monthly to keep them fresh and germ-free.

Dryer sheets:

Leave a dryer sheet in gloves and other smelly gear to remove odor.

Athletic tape:

It's multipurpose, from tying down or patching up equipment to patching up the athlete. Athletic tape is always good to have around in your gym bag.

Other Considerations

Treat training with others like a first date. Make sure you've showered, brushed your teeth, and your clothes and gear are clean. Don't treat it like working out by yourself, where you plan to wash up and clean your clothes afterward. Community training is different from isolated training. However, you can still get sick if your gear is not clean.

Make sure nails are trimmed and shirts tucked in. Avoid clothing with zippers and pockets, especially when grappling. You don't necessarily need to wear compression long sleeves and leggings, but you want your clothes to be smaller than you'd normally wear so they don't get twisted up, possibly catching people's fingers, toes, hands, and feet.

Consider ankle braces if you need foot and ankle support or extra traction for your shin guards or the ground.

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